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In the shade of the porticoes - 2nd section: Santo Stefano and Mercanzia

Updated on 16 January 2025 From Bologna Welcome

The Portico of Piazza Santo Stefano is part of a tour of the 12 UNESCO Porticoes of Bologna. Overlooking the picturesque square, it has witnessed centuries of history and city life and is one of the most iconic and fascinating places in the city.

Discover the second section of the UNESCO Porticoes of Bologna. This tour takes you to Piazza Santo Stefano, one of the most fascinating places in the city

The Portico of Piazza Santo Stefano is one of the oldest in Bologna, with roots dating back to the Middle Ages. Closely linked to the Seven Churches complex, the religious heart of the square, it exudes with spirituality and local tradition. It was Saint Petronius, bishop and patron of the city, who probably drew inspiration from a visit to Jerusalem and conceived the idea of building a "small Holy City" for the people of Bologna. The columns and arches of the portico frame an enchanting centuries-old view, almost suspended in time. Disciples, pilgrims and visitors have walked through this section, becoming part of a vibrant story that continues to be written every day. 

This portico stands out for the sleek elegance of its columns and low arches, which blend harmoniously with the medieval atmosphere of the square. The uneven pebble paving adds a further touch of historical authenticity and the essential lines exude functionality and understated beauty that emphasises timeless elegance. Among the various buildings, the fourteenth-century Palazzo della Mercanzia distinguishes itself for its monumental loggia and a portico of extraordinary architectural worth.


Today, walking along this portico is like taking a leap into the past, while remaining immersed in everyday life. The square comes alive with markets – ranging from antiques to books and crafts – that bring colour and vitality to the arcades. Artistic and performance events also take place. At dusk, Santo Stefano becomes a snazzy meeting place, with elegant venues and chic aperitif bars that attract both the locals and tourists seeking an intimate and refined atmosphere.

Not everyone knows that the remains of Saint Petronius were initially preserved in the Santo Stefano complex, but after the construction of the Basilica built in his memory, a dispute arose between the two institutions: the Santo Stefano complex wanted to keep the original remains, while the new basilica wanted to transfer them to the new location. This controversy resulted in a macabre decision: the saint's remains were divided in two. The body remained at the Santo Stefano complex and the head was transferred to the basilica. Only in the year 2000 were the remains finally reunited in the Basilica of San Petronio, ending centuries of separation.

"In the shade of the porticoes" is the column that explores the twelve Porticoes of Bologna, recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2021. In addition to offering insights into their history and architecture, the column also tells of the daily life of those who work, travel and live under those porticoes every day.

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